We’ve all been obsessed with Vitamin C but little do we know the secrets of the ‘Vitamin C world’. It actually comes in various forms and the results of each form of Vitamin C are different. Shocked? We bet you’d be rumbling through your vanity of Vitamin C products to check out the ingredients post this blog!
1. What is Vitamin C and what are the benefits of Vitamin C serum?
Vitamin C is a naturally occurring water-soluble antioxidant which helps to brighten your skin and improve collagen production. Vitamin C is also known to fight free radicals which are present around you right now and all the time. These free radicals cause oxidative damage to the skin but Vitamin C guards your skin by fighting free radicals. It is also known to give you that blinding glow which made facial serum with Vitamin C an instant hit in the market!
Those with skin concerns like hyperpigmentation, dullness, and dark spots must choose to include Vitamin C in their routine. But which form of Vitamin C can give you the best results? Let’s learn that now!
2. What are the different types of Vitamin C and how do they react on the skin?
Vitamin C, in its purest form, is called L-Ascorbic acid. It delivers what it promises but then it needs to be more stable. Due to this, Vitamin C oxidise very easily in its purest form. Exposure to light, heat, humidity can make it impotent. So to address this issue in skincare, we started resorting to Vitamin C derivatives in skin care. Following are the derivatives which are most commonly used in skincare:
- Ascorbic acid: The purest form of Vitamin C but unfortunately it is highly unstable. Keep it in light or air and it will oxidise faster than your ex’s personality does post getting in a relationship. However, if you formulate it correctly, ascorbic acid will sustain and deliver results for your skin. The secret lies in the formulation and packaging of pure Vitamin C products.
- 3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic acid: It is the most stable form of Vitamin C. This form of Vitamin C converts more than 80% of it to pure Vitamin C, hence delivering results without the higher chances of oxidation. This one gets a bit expensive to procure but if you spot it on the ingredient list then be assured that the product will deliver you that glow! Speaking of glow, our first serum plus moisturiser which can be touted as the best face serum for dry skin - CEO also delivers that glow given that it has the most stable form of Vitamin C. This concoction is formed to brighten dull skin, pigmentation, and dark spots and moisturise to strengthen your skin barrier. We’d say the CEO gets the bang for your buck and is worth investing!
- Ascorbyl Phosphate: It is a fat-soluble form of Vitamin C which works well if you’re looking at creamier products. There are types of salts in this too. For example, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) are less irritating than the pure form of Vitamin C so lesser potency and effect compared to Ascorbic acid. Salts like MAP can be effectively paired with Niacinamide since its pH is not as low as pure Vitamin C and hence Niacinamide may not disintegrate Vitamin C in such a formula.
- Ascorbyl Palmitate: It goes well with oil-based formula. It doesn’t convert well with Ascorbic acid which is why it is less preferred.
- Calcium Ascorbate: It goes well for sensitive skin. It is also known as Ester-C. It has great skin hydrating benefits but isn’t as potent as Ascorbic acid and works as neutral pH. It is non-irritant but when it comes to results, you can do with a better form of Vitamin C.
- Bioflavonoids: These are plant-derived Vitamin C which can definitely deliver good results. However, they’re not as potent as Ascorbic acid, neither are they as unstable as Ascorbic acid. When used together with Vitamin C, it can enhance the results of Vitamin C.
Next time you spot them on the ingredient list, revisit this blog to know if it's worth your money!
1. Which is the most stable form of Vitamin C?
3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic acid. The ethyl attached to the pure form of Vitamin C, helps it become the most stable form of Vitamin C with results just as similar to the pure form of Vitamin C.
2. Is it okay to not wear sunscreen with Vitamin C during the daytime?
Nope. With or without Vitamin C, we vehemently discourage the non-usage of sunscreen during the daytime. If you are wearing Vitamin C then more reasons to not avoid sunscreen.
3. How to build Vitamin C in your skincare routine?
You must start slow with any actives. With Vitamin C remember to use it twice a week initially and then later build it to alternate days or daily. Since this active can be easily oxidised, it is essential to follow it with sunscreen during the daytime. This is a potent ingredient so try including a soothing essence or milky toner beforehand. If you’re using CEO then you need not use anything since it is a 3-in-1 product which tones, moisturises, and brightens. CEO also becomes the natural choice for those who’re looking for the best serum to tackle pigmentation.
4. What is the ideal concentration of Vitamin C to begin with?
Anything with 5% should be good to start with. But ensure that you start slow at the beginning. Use it on a dry face and follow it with a good moisturiser to reduce the chances of irritation/inflammation.